“Trenchless” isn’t one thing. The right method depends entirely on the condition of your pipe, which is why we never recommend one without scoping the line first. Here’s the logic we use.
| If the pipe is… | Best method |
|---|---|
| Cracked/leaking but structurally intact | CIPP lining |
| Collapsed, severely offset, or Orangeburg | Pipe bursting |
| Corroding internally but sound (cast iron) | Epoxy coating or descaling |
| Bad in just one short section | Spot / point repair |
| Full of grease/scale but undamaged | Hydro jetting / descaling |
The workhorse. A resin liner cures into a jointless structural pipe inside your existing one. Ideal for clay and cast iron with cracks, roots at joints, or leaks — as long as there’s a sound host pipe to line against. More on CIPP →
When there’s nothing left to line — a collapsed line, severe offsets, or deteriorated Orangeburg — bursting pulls a brand-new HDPE pipe through the old one’s path. It can also upsize your line. More on bursting →
For cast iron that’s corroding but not cracking, an epoxy coating restores the interior surface. It’s non-structural, so it’s the wrong choice for a pipe that’s failing structurally — honesty about that distinction matters. More on coating →
All of this comes down to what the camera shows. A free inspection turns “which method?” from a guess into an engineering decision.
Book a free camera inspection and get a plain-English diagnosis — plus a fixed quote before any work begins.